Island nights

Patrick Labesse guides us to the best little bars and local restaurants in Martinique, Guadeloupe and Reunion.

MARTINIQUE

CHEZ KADDAR Ital restaurant run by rastas. Delicious vegetarian food with fresh fruit juices (beetroot, passion fruit, ginger…). Chilled out atmosphere and décor, with a reggae soundtrack. No tourists, just the capital’s most conscious young people, artists and writers. Route de la Folie in Fort de France.

There are several good, friendly restaurants and bars on the sea-front in Sainte Luce, including the highly recommended OBAMA'S BAR: A canvas roof, no walls - the barbecue is set up roadside, plastic tables and chairs on the sand – this is a fantastically convivial place! The diners are tourists and locals and the atmosphere is super welcoming, with great Caribbean music. On the menu – grilled fish, seafood, ribs…

LE ZANZIBAR Right next door. Lounge-style bar-restaurant on several levels. Offers varied tapas-style menu with adventurous fusion cuisine.

Thanks to Véronique Kanor
 

GUADELOUPE

BIR KREYOL In Beausoleil (Baie-Mahault): a restaurant-bar and concert venue inside a warehouse. Serves great cocktails made with locally produced spirits.

COCO CAFE In Gosier. The restaurant at the aquarium. Very popular. Great local dishes.

LA KASA in Jaille, restaurant and music venue in a traditional house.

ZOO ROCK At La Marina (outskirts of Pointe-à-Pitre), bar-restaurant and nightclub on two floors.

Thanks to Laurence Hatchi

REUNION

In Réunion, the favourite night to go out is Sunday. By the beach, heading towards Saint-Leu is RONDAVELLE (a little shack by the port, a few steps from the lagoon) where you can get delicious grilled fish and a Dodo (the local beer). Twice a month there is an open air concert here by the sea.

In Saint-Louis you find L’ILOT: an alternative bar, Reunionese artist exhibitions, a wine cellar and plates of French cheese and charcuterie. Regular live music nights with rock and maloya bands including Rocksteady Sporting Club and Lo Griyo.

On the west coast, LA GUEULE DE BOIS by St-Gilles beach: buzzy open-air bar with food and live music or DJ.

Another Friday night favourite is LE 211 in Saint-Leu: open-air bar run by the Safiko festival team. Lots of great live music.

Just next door, L’AUBERGE DU RELAIS, for amazing swordfish steak!

Thanks to Sébastien Broquet

Patrick Labesse

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